Neighborhood bars


Growing up in suburban Texas, the neighborhood bar I saw on TV was exactly that: a TV trope. The nearest bar was twenty minutes by car, and with a wife and four kids, there wasn't time to spend anywhere, let alone propping up a stool somewhere.

Then I moved to Chicago alone, landing in the South Loop, with my family still in Texas. Exploring the new neighborhood, I found three bars within a single block of my flat: Half Sour (stellar Reuben), First Draft (astounding variety of beers), and All Star Seafood and Sports (damn good seafood, especially the soup). I'd ducked into All Star around noon to watch the U.S. women's hockey team in the Olympics when the bartender greeted me by name. That simple act hit harder than I expected. I was missing my family like crazy, and it was the first time Chicago felt like it might actually become home.

The bartender who remembered my name was Liz. She's a mid-fifties, heavily tattooed, mother of (I think) three kids, but is one of those women whose house is always full of kids from all over. She was just back from a couple of weeks in Mexico. Battle-worn and gold-hearted, she has no patience for men who act badly. "Estoy a lado de las esposas, no las viejas," she'll tell you. She was surprised when I overheard her talking with the chef in Spanish and joined in. I learned mine from my wife, which means I speak it with a Mexican accent, which I gather is unusual in this part of town.

As I kept wandering in at the end of the day, the place opened up. Robert, the owner, in his late fifties and a lover of a good cigar, sets up a chessboard most nights and plays all comers. Huma, his wife, runs things. Abby manages the bar, and is fiercely protective of her staff. Behind the taps with Liz are Cynthia and Isbeth; Phil rotates through for a shift here and there.

The regulars filled in too. Steven, a retired bar owner himself, rolls in on a power wheelchair, half-lit by the time he gets to us. He runs a daily circuit through Señorita's, First Draft and occasionally Half Sour before landing here. Ron's around my age, usually with Steven, rarely actually drunk, and almost always home before him. Charles stops in after work. A sharp dresser, with a long drive back to the suburbs, he never stays too late. Lonnie's a fixture, though I haven't pinned him down yet.

What really sealed it was discovering the bar had a jukebox I could control from my phone. Many a night I drove Abby and Robert up the wall playing nothing but reggaeton, salsa, and old-school rock en español. Liz and Cynthia loved it, since it was the same music they listen to themselves.

When my wife and youngest were able to fly up for a couple of weeks, the bar was one of the first places I took them. My wife and Liz hit it off immediately. Both are around the same age and temperament.

I've been here a little over two months now, and I spend most nights down there. I keep running into folks from the bar elsewhere in the city, and nothing has done more to make me feel part of the community. Some nights are slow and we chat about nothing in particular. Some nights are slammed and I just soak up the energy. Either way, I always feel at home.

My wife joins me for good in a month, and I'm sure the nights I spend down there will thin out. But I never want to live again in a place where I can't do this; walk down the street and shoot the shit with a bunch of characters and whoever else happens to wander in. From getting my ass kicked by Robert at the chessboard, to sniggering at the guy who spent a hundred bucks trying to pick up a woman who very obviously had no interest, to swearing at the TV when the Stars exited in the first round, to playing "Frijolero" yet again just to watch Liz and Cynthia crack up - I have found my people.

I'll always be grateful to the folks who made me welcome.

Salud y vida.